autumn fashion in Vienna, 1935: beautiful, but . . .

Since we are on the cusp of autumn in the northern hemisphere, I thought I'd share with you a little fashion inspiration from 1935, specifically the September 1935 issue of the Vienna-based fashion magazine, Die Moderne Welt.  1930s Vienna was a very dark to place to be if you were a Jew.  Hitler's Anschluss of Austria would not occur until 1938, but by 1935, antisemitic attacks on Jews were on the rise in Vienna.  I love Vienna and I love 1930s fashion, but it's hard not to look at these pretty images through a glass darkened by the suffering of so many.  I find it difficult to enjoy looking at fashion magazines today for some of the same reasons.

And yet. . . fashion can be so beautiful.  And I do love it.  So let's try to forget all the bad stuff for a minute and look at some pretty pictures!

Fall hats.  I particularly like the two in the center.

Shopping outfits!  My favorite here is the plaid suit on the bottom.  The maker is not stated, but the outfit with the cape is by Piguet.  The "stone green" (Steingrünes) suit with cherries on it is by Nina Ricci.  (Just a side note: sometimes the German words for colors in these old fashion magazines are evocative and beautiful, a la Steingrünes.  At other times, they are straight up racist.)

Walking costumes.  I think these all are very smart, and particularly like the decorative buttons and collar on the top suit.  However, each is made with a different animal pelt, from seal to "broadtail" (fetal lamb) to nutria (cute giant rats, rather like capybara).

Let's get out of disturbing fur territory and into--morning outfits!  These are all so great, but I particularly like the top two with the geometric pockets.  They look so modern.

  

Afternoon dresses.  My god, aren't these dreamy?  It's hard to pick a favorite, but mine is probably the one on the bottom right with the scalloping and sleeve details.  It's made of dark blue wool georgette with white and red silk insets and is by Hubert.  The top dresses are an iridescent silk dress with soutache trim by Bernard, and a blue low-neck dress with brown satin trim by Piguet.  On the bottom left is a dark brown Marocain (crepe) tea dress with pink satin waistcoat by Bernard.

Gowns for the theater.  The purple dress on the left is by Piguet.  Interesting, romantic Renaissance-style bodice on the top right dress, and I like the slightly bohemian feel of the center dress, which is made of black velvet trimmed in satin; it is by Helene Hubert.

Dresses for dancing.  The far left gown and black gown trimmed in purple are both by Piguet.  I am curious why Piguet is so heavily represented here, and not other more famous designers of the day.

Fashions for girls.  I can't help it; I love the dress on the far left and would love to wear the adult version.  With the leather bag, which you know is beautiful.  (Why did kids get the best bags?)

And a page of that ultimate fashion accessory, the adorable puppy or kitten.

xo

K

nautical 1940

Though the US hadn't entered the war in 1940, World War II had already begun.  The US Navy was already a formidable force, and the October 28, 1940 issue of Life magazine was entirely devoted to the subject of the US Navy.  This included a photo essay about nautical fashions; you can read the article at this link.  They were a bit more literal and detailed about nautical fashion in 1940 than we are now with our Breton stripes and middy collars, but no doubt for good reason, considering the context and history.

These hats by Lily Daché are embroidered with famous naval quotes like "Don't give up the ship" and "I have not yet begun to fight."  

Love that sailor collar on the far left, and the adorable sweater in the center!

Belts, compacts, and buttons with naval mottos.

That sailor's knot purse is beyond cute.  Love the gloves, too.

Boat shoes with boat-themed socks and gloves!

These fabric prints are fantastic.  And the "Pearl Harbor Gray" color--sad and rather chilling, when you think of what occurred at Pearl Harbor a year later.

xo

K